Humanality 6b+
A super ultra mega classic of multi-pitches at Tonsai. It’s not without reason that it appears first in the results on YouTube after entering “Tonsai multipitching” because it’s probably the most famous multi-pitch route on the peninsula. The difficulty is not too demanding, with friendly bolting, no obstacles during descents, great location, and an incredibly photogenic pitch number 5, making it very popular among aspiring climbers.
Pitch 1 (5a/b/c): – From the start on an elevation, which you access by a ladder near the bar, you need to climb up tufas and columns to a massive ledge, from which you can relatively safely reach the A1 station.
Pitch 2 (6b): – A one-mover … unfortunately, right after the start. After overcoming the initial boulder problem, again on relatively easy terrain, you proceed about 10m to the A2 station.
Pitch 3 (6a+): – From the A2 station, two routes start – to the left “Bird’s Nest Drop” 7c and to the right around the corner, the 3rd pitch of “Humanality”. Upon exiting around the corner, the route leads upward and then turns left. Here, it’s worth paying attention not to go to the “Bird’s Nest Drop” station, which is located a bit below the “Humanality” belay station (A3).
Pitch 4 (6b): – Technical climbing requiring good footwork and a bit of strength.
Pitch 5 (6b+): – The cherry on top of the entire route. An interesting crux near a huge stalactite. Definitely a great place for taking photos.
Pitch 6 (6b): – Supposedly 6b. We finished at A5 and concluded that we prefer breakfast at the bottom more than another pitch ;).
Access
The start of the route is located in the most representative part of Tonsai – on the beach near the Freedom Bar.
Time and planning
The route stays in the shade until about 11 a.m. and then it is in the sun until the evening. Therefore, practically all teams start climbing at dawn to manage to descend from the path before 11. Some experienced climbers, who are already familiar with the route, climb in the evening using headlamps. However, I do not recommend this approach for the first time.
Gear
For climbing, we used standard equipment for sport multi-pitch routes consisting of, in addition to belay devices, a few screw-lock carabiners, a few slings, and prusiks, along with about 16 quickdraws. We had one 80m long rope.
Rope Management
The climb can be easily completed even with the use of a single 70m (and according to thecrag.com even with a 60m rope) rope since no pitch is longer than 30m and route is not overall overhanging. With one rope from the very top to the bottom, you can make 4 rappels – from TOP to A5, from A5 to REP1 (a stance several meters to the right of A4), then from REP1 to REP2 (an exposed stance at the top of a stalactite) and then descent from REP2 to the roof of Freedom Bar.
